<![CDATA[Rotorway Forums - Modifications & Recommendations]]>

<![CDATA[Rotorway Forums - Modifications & Recommendations]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/ Wed, 15 Apr 2026 20:14:18 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[tail rotor shaft drive in the boom for the RW]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-93.html Tue, 24 Mar 2026 04:40:52 -0500 Graeme Smith]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-93.html https://www.facebook.com/groups/1523964747814153

[Image: secondary-gearbox-with-geo-rotor.jpg]

[Image: secondary-gearbox-with-all-covers-of.jpg]

[Image: secondary-gearbox-with-georotor-caseing-removed.jpg]

]]> https://www.facebook.com/groups/1523964747814153

]]> <![CDATA[Alternator/charging]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-84.html Fri, 13 Feb 2026 21:04:02 -0600 Lyle Swallows]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-84.html
what size was the Alternator in the later model Talons/Phoenix A600's?

i have a 37amp Prestolite 8AR2169, i see later 51Amp became the standard?

i would like to eventually do an Electric water pump upgrade aswell as not worry about any charging at Idle or overcapacity issues with lights/avionics including a small electric heater blower fan robbed from an R22.

here are some graphs i've found for the 37Amp and 65amp 8AR series prestolite's

]]>
what size was the Alternator in the later model Talons/Phoenix A600's?

i have a 37amp Prestolite 8AR2169, i see later 51Amp became the standard?

i would like to eventually do an Electric water pump upgrade aswell as not worry about any charging at Idle or overcapacity issues with lights/avionics including a small electric heater blower fan robbed from an R22.

here are some graphs i've found for the 37Amp and 65amp 8AR series prestolite's

]]> <![CDATA[hints for improving maintenance]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-74.html Tue, 27 Jan 2026 11:02:49 -0600 Sam Oliver]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-74.html I'm going to quote what I wrote down, and I'm specifically asking what your thought are on nutplates across the the top and bottom of the windscreen.

"Now ,I’m all in favor of items to improve safety or maintenance. You should build the machine like you were going to take it apart next week. Anything attached to the seats should be very easy to remove or disconnect. Seats should be very easy to remove from the rest of the body panels to make easy access to the front of the engine and the lower main shaft area. This means nutplates across the top of the windscreen and I also put them on the bottom of the windscreen , too. bolts can be used on the door posts, they can come out with the windscreen. Hardly ever any need to separate them again.
Also , make holes in seats big enough so belts can go thru them without removing frame attachments."]]> I'm going to quote what I wrote down, and I'm specifically asking what your thought are on nutplates across the the top and bottom of the windscreen.

"Now ,I’m all in favor of items to improve safety or maintenance. You should build the machine like you were going to take it apart next week. Anything attached to the seats should be very easy to remove or disconnect. Seats should be very easy to remove from the rest of the body panels to make easy access to the front of the engine and the lower main shaft area. This means nutplates across the top of the windscreen and I also put them on the bottom of the windscreen , too. bolts can be used on the door posts, they can come out with the windscreen. Hardly ever any need to separate them again.
Also , make holes in seats big enough so belts can go thru them without removing frame attachments."]]> <![CDATA[Raised main rotor - now rigging]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-72.html Wed, 21 Jan 2026 14:55:54 -0600 Tony Evans]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-72.html
I just installed a new Peter K cog belt drive and had to raise the entire mast assembly 0.08 inches at the lower mast bearing (via a shim) to maintain specified clearance between the driven cog and the longitudinal square frame tube.

When I re-rig the controls I plan to simply adjust the length of the rod ends on the collective control rod to compensate and return the system to RW specs. Am I missing anything?

Thx!]]>
I just installed a new Peter K cog belt drive and had to raise the entire mast assembly 0.08 inches at the lower mast bearing (via a shim) to maintain specified clearance between the driven cog and the longitudinal square frame tube.

When I re-rig the controls I plan to simply adjust the length of the rod ends on the collective control rod to compensate and return the system to RW specs. Am I missing anything?

Thx!]]> <![CDATA[Engine Governors]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-62.html Tue, 13 Jan 2026 10:26:48 -0600 Sam Oliver]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-62.html , and everybody else that is familiar or interested.

My only experience in piston helicopters is from 40-50 years ago in military OH-13 and TH-55. The TH-55 had an overspeed governor and frankly i can't remember what the OH-13 had. Of course this A600 kit comes with no governor.

Question for everybody, how distracting is the no governor. and how helpful is one. What options are available? I have a engine that I will be putting in. My understanding is (I have not yet uncrated the engine) he has an automotive style single fuel control. No fadec, no carburetors. So not sure how that will play in.

Thoughts??
Thanks in advance.
Sam]]> , and everybody else that is familiar or interested.

My only experience in piston helicopters is from 40-50 years ago in military OH-13 and TH-55. The TH-55 had an overspeed governor and frankly i can't remember what the OH-13 had. Of course this A600 kit comes with no governor.

Question for everybody, how distracting is the no governor. and how helpful is one. What options are available? I have a engine that I will be putting in. My understanding is (I have not yet uncrated the engine) he has an automotive style single fuel control. No fadec, no carburetors. So not sure how that will play in.

Thoughts??
Thanks in advance.
Sam]]> <![CDATA[DeltaHawk engine with a gearbox in a RW]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-58.html Sat, 10 Jan 2026 19:07:54 -0600 Graeme Smith]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-58.html This setup has a centrifugal clutch and an isolating donut style damper with a seperate one way between the engine and the gearbox. I decided to keep the Vee belt drive line to the tail rotor so I replaced the secondary with a simple shaft and from the input to the gearbox we installed a toothed drive pulley driving the shaft to which the standard Vee pulley was mounted.

WE decided to not proceed with offering this upgrade, as the power that the engine put out was, in my opinion, way too much for the rotor system, as with the RW tied down to the trailer and 4 separate scales beneath each wheel we could pull and hold full up (+10deg) collective and raise and lower the RRPM via the throttle. at that point 2 of the scales had gone to zero and the other 2 showed we were lifting over 1000kg (2204lbs) I decided I could not trust that the RW rotor system could handle that much power so we abandoned the idea and built a brand new helicopter with the DH engine , the DH2

[Image: DH-in-RW-drive-line-view-from-DH-engine-...earbox.jpg]

[Image: DH-in-RW-pt-view-through-seat-back-of-tu...t-muff.jpg]

]]> This setup has a centrifugal clutch and an isolating donut style damper with a seperate one way between the engine and the gearbox. I decided to keep the Vee belt drive line to the tail rotor so I replaced the secondary with a simple shaft and from the input to the gearbox we installed a toothed drive pulley driving the shaft to which the standard Vee pulley was mounted.

WE decided to not proceed with offering this upgrade, as the power that the engine put out was, in my opinion, way too much for the rotor system, as with the RW tied down to the trailer and 4 separate scales beneath each wheel we could pull and hold full up (+10deg) collective and raise and lower the RRPM via the throttle. at that point 2 of the scales had gone to zero and the other 2 showed we were lifting over 1000kg (2204lbs) I decided I could not trust that the RW rotor system could handle that much power so we abandoned the idea and built a brand new helicopter with the DH engine , the DH2

]]> <![CDATA[photos of my build with the changes]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-55.html Thu, 08 Jan 2026 01:36:27 -0600 Graeme Smith]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-55.html

]]>

]]> <![CDATA[Orv's Website and Recommendations]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-53.html Wed, 07 Jan 2026 12:30:04 -0600 Jared Hartzell]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-53.html Rotorway Forums is now hosting Orv's website for the public to access, which contains recommended modifications under the "Hints and Tips" section, found here.

Click here to access Orv's website.

We're committed to keeping Orv's website maintained and accessible to all and any requested updates by Orv will be implemented through Rotorway Forums.

]]> Rotorway Forums is now hosting Orv's website for the public to access, which contains recommended modifications under the "Hints and Tips" section, found here.

Click here to access Orv's website.

We're committed to keeping Orv's website maintained and accessible to all and any requested updates by Orv will be implemented through Rotorway Forums.

]]> <![CDATA[raising the rotor hub thoughts]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-51.html Sun, 04 Jan 2026 21:41:19 -0600 Graeme Smith]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-51.html just wondering re extending the RW shaft, I remember that over the years a few have gone down that path, and I also remember that some had issues with flying i.e. porpoising, at the time it was thought that the cowling of the turbine was the issue.

I simply am looking for results issues and benefits as I have a tentative plan to fit a gearbox with a tail rotor drive (not the RW one) along with a new tail rotor hub and I am thinking a good time to lift the rotor head another 6" or so., Also a new swash plate with a far greater range, (The swash plate in the attached is for a 3 bladed design, and the shown bell cranks were for a full set of push pull rods.)

I also wonder if raising the rotor head without raising the tail rotor might also have something to do with it.

Just thinking out loud, maybe someone with some first hand experience could offer their thoughts??]]> just wondering re extending the RW shaft, I remember that over the years a few have gone down that path, and I also remember that some had issues with flying i.e. porpoising, at the time it was thought that the cowling of the turbine was the issue.

I simply am looking for results issues and benefits as I have a tentative plan to fit a gearbox with a tail rotor drive (not the RW one) along with a new tail rotor hub and I am thinking a good time to lift the rotor head another 6" or so., Also a new swash plate with a far greater range, (The swash plate in the attached is for a 3 bladed design, and the shown bell cranks were for a full set of push pull rods.)

I also wonder if raising the rotor head without raising the tail rotor might also have something to do with it.

Just thinking out loud, maybe someone with some first hand experience could offer their thoughts??]]> <![CDATA[RW 162 engine RPM]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-49.html Tue, 30 Dec 2025 22:15:18 -0600 Graeme Smith]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-49.html
I am looking for what would happen IF the engine was run at say 5000rpm, continuously would it make more power, would it explode, would it last?

In this idea I am not using the FADEC system I am using the TBI system which I have proven at the regular 4250 rpm, and my outside scoop cooling system.

But just thinking outside the box.... what if a gearbox was designed with an output at 520rpm but the input around the 5000 would the engine be OK?]]>
I am looking for what would happen IF the engine was run at say 5000rpm, continuously would it make more power, would it explode, would it last?

In this idea I am not using the FADEC system I am using the TBI system which I have proven at the regular 4250 rpm, and my outside scoop cooling system.

But just thinking outside the box.... what if a gearbox was designed with an output at 520rpm but the input around the 5000 would the engine be OK?]]> <![CDATA[Cyclic grip]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-46.html Mon, 29 Dec 2025 05:27:16 -0600 Graeme Smith]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-46.html [Image: 7d8c7c81-9c94-4a6d-9709-7a05c6bd2ded.jpg]

[Image: 7d8c7c81-9c94-4a6d-9709-7a05c6bd2ded.jpg]

[Image: 24f4ed06-261a-4149-941e-66dc20db44ba.jpg]

[Image: a388cc27-4158-4af2-8b4b-fbc6701e55f4.jpg]

[Image: 60faa9ff-5ff4-4c97-ac52-d2dd04acaa11.jpg]

[Image: fad8c86b-2abc-417d-8749-1f3dac301d07.jpg]

This is my attempt to incorporate all the controls for radio, governor, TBI, engine start on the older style grip, I prefer it to the later grip as there simply is more room and I had 2 spare. The red button is the PTPTT I could not justify the top hat 4 way switch at $400 plus freight so opted for small push button switches, The TBI primer press button is on the back and barely protrudes, but you can operate it at the same time as pressing the start button]]> <![CDATA[cooling system and upgrades]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-43.html Fri, 26 Dec 2025 18:45:04 -0600 Graeme Smith]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-43.html I just wanted to tell all about some of my improvements to the cooling system both H2O and oil and the new fuel system on the RW.
I have managed to gain 3" more MAP by this improvement.
the gist of the idea and I have since validated the improvements by very experienced flight instructors is delete the belt driven fan, it takes about 10HP to drive that fan, thus the power saving.
1- I replace the radiator by a more efficient radiator used in racing.
2- I totally cover the top of the radiator with a shroud which has a bum shape deflector in the middle of it.
This stops all the hot engine air from being forced through the radiator as in the stock setup, the internal deflector changes the incoming air from 2 x side scops to travelling downwards.
3- I fully enclose the bottom of the radiator with another shroud in which I mount 2 x 11" dia electric fans, these fans are controlled by a thermostat mounted in the radiator that turns the fans on / off as needed. Trials has shown that in the hover the fans cycle on off but once in forward flight the fans remain off as the two side scoops capture enough air to keep temperatures stable.
4- I also delete the standard oil tank that the coolant runs through with an oil only tank and then I install an air to oil cooler in the bottom of the tub fed air by a NACA scoop, behind the oil cooler I mount 2 x 5" electric fans that again do the job in the hover and the NACA scoop does the job in forward flight.
5- I also delete the entire fuel system and replace with a TBI, this needs the exec90 carbi manifold which I invert and add a Y manifold to mount the TBI below the fuel tanks so no fuel pumps are needed, the TBI has a fuel mixture adjustment in the cabin (same as in a fixed wing setup) so the engine can be tuned to suit the day temp pressure etc to get the most out of it, I run a fuel mixture gauge which samples the exhaust gasses to display the reading on the instrument in the consol.
6- I also install the air filter in the tup to feed directly into the TBI, (cold air induction)
7- I fit a fuel sump and modify (shorten) the stock RW fuel filter and on off valve this gives me a large fuel sump to test when doing the daily fuel drain test for water.
I also do a lot of other modifications and get made special parts that are hard to find

]]> I just wanted to tell all about some of my improvements to the cooling system both H2O and oil and the new fuel system on the RW.
I have managed to gain 3" more MAP by this improvement.
the gist of the idea and I have since validated the improvements by very experienced flight instructors is delete the belt driven fan, it takes about 10HP to drive that fan, thus the power saving.
1- I replace the radiator by a more efficient radiator used in racing.
2- I totally cover the top of the radiator with a shroud which has a bum shape deflector in the middle of it.
This stops all the hot engine air from being forced through the radiator as in the stock setup, the internal deflector changes the incoming air from 2 x side scops to travelling downwards.
3- I fully enclose the bottom of the radiator with another shroud in which I mount 2 x 11" dia electric fans, these fans are controlled by a thermostat mounted in the radiator that turns the fans on / off as needed. Trials has shown that in the hover the fans cycle on off but once in forward flight the fans remain off as the two side scoops capture enough air to keep temperatures stable.
4- I also delete the standard oil tank that the coolant runs through with an oil only tank and then I install an air to oil cooler in the bottom of the tub fed air by a NACA scoop, behind the oil cooler I mount 2 x 5" electric fans that again do the job in the hover and the NACA scoop does the job in forward flight.
5- I also delete the entire fuel system and replace with a TBI, this needs the exec90 carbi manifold which I invert and add a Y manifold to mount the TBI below the fuel tanks so no fuel pumps are needed, the TBI has a fuel mixture adjustment in the cabin (same as in a fixed wing setup) so the engine can be tuned to suit the day temp pressure etc to get the most out of it, I run a fuel mixture gauge which samples the exhaust gasses to display the reading on the instrument in the consol.
6- I also install the air filter in the tup to feed directly into the TBI, (cold air induction)
7- I fit a fuel sump and modify (shorten) the stock RW fuel filter and on off valve this gives me a large fuel sump to test when doing the daily fuel drain test for water.
I also do a lot of other modifications and get made special parts that are hard to find

]]> <![CDATA[Avionics choices]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-25.html Sun, 21 Dec 2025 08:02:47 -0600 Sam Oliver]]> https://rotorwayforums.com/thread-25.html
I'm interested in a basic panel, a single VHF radio with flip flop frequency controls from the cyclic, ADSB since I'm near controlled airspace. Will be a glass panel of some variety, but I'm not committed to this MGL.

I'm interested in hearing what you may have, or have experience with and pros and cons of such

Thanks and Thanks for participating.

Sam]]>
I'm interested in a basic panel, a single VHF radio with flip flop frequency controls from the cyclic, ADSB since I'm near controlled airspace. Will be a glass panel of some variety, but I'm not committed to this MGL.

I'm interested in hearing what you may have, or have experience with and pros and cons of such

Thanks and Thanks for participating.

Sam]]>