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tail rotor shaft drive in...

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Orv Neisingh
TR bearing noise

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  photos of my build with the changes
Posted by: Graeme Smith - 01-08-2026, 07:36 AM - Forum: Modifications & Recommendations - Replies (4)

some overall photos of the mods I am talking about.


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[Image: 20260108-093339.jpg] [Image: 20260108-093323.jpg] [Image: 20260108-093307.jpg] [Image: 20260108-093214.jpg] [Image: 20260108-093159.jpg] [Image: 20260108-093146.jpg] [Image: 20260108-093132.jpg] [Image: 20260108-093116.jpg]

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Information Orv's Website and Recommendations
Posted by: Jared Hartzell - 01-07-2026, 06:30 PM - Forum: Modifications & Recommendations - Replies (2)

Rotorway Forums is now hosting Orv's website for the public to access, which contains recommended modifications under the "Hints and Tips" section, found here.


We're committed to keeping Orv's website maintained and accessible to all and any requested updates by Orv will be implemented through Rotorway Forums.

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Information Orv's Website and Recommendations
Posted by: Jared Hartzell - 01-07-2026, 06:30 PM - Forum: Guides/Tutorials - No Replies

Rotorway Forums is now hosting Orv's website for the public to access, which contains recommended modifications under the "Hints and Tips" section, found here.


We're committed to keeping Orv's website maintained and accessible to all and any requested updates by Orv will be implemented through Rotorway Forums.

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  raising the rotor hub thoughts
Posted by: Graeme Smith - 01-05-2026, 03:41 AM - Forum: Modifications & Recommendations - Replies (3)

Hi, 
just wondering re extending the RW shaft, I remember that over the years a few have gone down that path, and I also remember that some had issues with flying i.e. porpoising, at the time it was thought that the cowling of the turbine was the issue.

I simply am looking for results issues and benefits as I have a tentative plan to fit a gearbox with a tail rotor drive (not the RW one) along with a new tail rotor hub and I am thinking a good time to lift the rotor head another 6" or so., Also a new swash plate with a far greater range, (The swash plate in the attached is for a 3 bladed design, and the shown bell cranks were for a full set of push pull rods.)
[Image: gearbox-with-swash-plate.jpg]

[Image: tail-rotor-gearbox.jpg]

[Image: main-gearbox.jpg]

I also wonder if raising the rotor head without raising the tail rotor might also have something to do with it.

Just thinking out loud, maybe someone with some first hand experience could offer their thoughts??

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  RotorX Franken Kit
Posted by: Sam Oliver - 01-01-2026, 04:05 PM - Forum: Documentation/Blog - Replies (8)

I'm on a very slow roll to attempt to complete a RotorX Phoenix A600 Kit.    I am melding parts from a an incomplete kit I purchased from the factory prior to their failure, with parts from another incomplete kit another fellow had, with an engine from another fellow.    All together, I believe I have all of the critical parts.    Only lacking in instruments and any lighting/optional type stuff.

Initially, When I purchased the kit in 2022, I was planning on building not only a safe and correct mechanical aircraft, but one worthy of showing off cosmetically, and craft wise   But the three year delay has pushed the entire goal now into just the safe and mechanically correct version, and the cosmetics maybe later (I have two complete aircraft worth of body panels to mess up, one set already not so great).

So wish me luck,  I have shed a bunch of extraneous projects off my plate and am planning on jumping on this project with a lot more time and effort and making serious progress this winter/spring.
[Image: 20221122-155938.jpg]Ah yes!   The excitement of unpacking back when I was clueless of the challenges RotorX was going through.   This was prior to the Rotorway Builders group on facebook, and when I couldn't get the forum moderator to approve my membership on ROG forum (should have been a clue things weren't going well).    

[Image: 20230321-172353.jpg]
Once again, this was prior to the Rotorway Builders group facebook page.  I spent as much time searching the internet for people in my situation looking for some build advice.   Eventually, the ROG forum moderator got around to approving my membership and I was able to connect with a few other new ROTORX builders at my same level of frustration.  Trying to figure out where to split the tub.  Wade at the factory was hard to get in touch with, and eventually I spent some time with him on the phone where he admitted the panels were anything but close.   Gave me a couple of hints and wished me luck.   (Another clue I didn't catch early enought-   Trying to get in touch with anybody at the factory about questions).  Luckily at that time, I was able to communicate with the few aforementioned ROTORX builders on ROG for help.   But eventually, I lost access to ROG when I put in a wrong password a couple times.   Was never able to get the administrator to reset the password.  Gave up on ROG, as by now the Rotorway builders group on Facebook started and I found the ROG forum was so hit and miss most people had given up on it.

[Image: 20230213-113720.jpg]RotorX and their crappy fitting winglets.    Little did I know at this time, that I probably should have just left them off, finished off the stabilizers without the winglets.   But spent a lot of time cutting, trimming and reshaping trying to get some semblance of a fit.

About this time in my build; RotorX was - unknown to me, in full fledge melt down.   Employees either didn't answer the phone, or brushed everything off, with company correct speak of, "Wade" is out of the office this week-  We are waiting on parts from our suppliers, we expect them any day---Your group is going to be "next one out".   We all know where that went.   They failed, work stopped on my end as well.

So Here I am 3+ years later.  Getting ready to lower my tailboom down from it's dusty perch where it's been hanging the last three years, put it back on the frame, and continue on.   This pick a few days ago.   I'm getting ready to fit the windscreen.   Waiting on a response from @Paul Barroso about his window mounting jig dimensions.

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  RW 162 engine RPM
Posted by: Graeme Smith - 12-31-2025, 04:15 AM - Forum: Modifications & Recommendations - Replies (5)

Just wondering if anyone has experience with running the RW 162 engine above the 4250 for extended time,

I am looking for what would happen IF the engine was run at say 5000rpm, continuously would it make more power, would it explode, would it last?

In this idea I am not using the FADEC system I am using the TBI system which I have proven at the regular 4250 rpm, and my outside scoop cooling system.

But just thinking outside the box.... what if a gearbox was designed with an output at 520rpm but the input around the 5000 would the engine be OK?

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  Vacuum Leaks
Posted by: Tim Morris - 12-29-2025, 04:15 PM - Forum: Maintenance & Troubleshooting (162/A600) - Replies (9)

I just completed a pressurized smoke leak check on my intake manifold troubleshooting a high idle RPM problem.  Smoke check works very well!  No leaks except around the bearings that hold the throttle shaft in the Plenum.  Has anyone ever done a similar test?  Is it normal to have leakage around those bearings?

Really don't want to have to change them just to find out that wasn't the problem...

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  Cyclic grip
Posted by: Graeme Smith - 12-29-2025, 11:27 AM - Forum: Modifications & Recommendations - Replies (4)

[Image: 7d8c7c81-9c94-4a6d-9709-7a05c6bd2ded.jpg]

[Image: 24f4ed06-261a-4149-941e-66dc20db44ba.jpg]

[Image: a388cc27-4158-4af2-8b4b-fbc6701e55f4.jpg]

[Image: 60faa9ff-5ff4-4c97-ac52-d2dd04acaa11.jpg]

[Image: fad8c86b-2abc-417d-8749-1f3dac301d07.jpg]This is my attempt to incorporate all the controls for radio, governor, TBI, engine start on the older style grip, I prefer it to the later grip as there simply is more room and I had 2 spare. The red button is the PTPTT I could not justify the top hat 4 way switch at $400 plus freight so opted for small push button switches, The TBI primer press button is on the back and barely protrudes, but you can operate it at the same time as pressing the start button

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  Elastomeric Thrust Bearings
Posted by: Jared Hartzell - 12-28-2025, 05:57 PM - Forum: Parts Marketplace - Replies (4)


Where can I order new Elastomeric Thrust Bearings?

Currently, we have two authorized vendors selling elastomeric thrust bearings and there may be a waitlist.

Please contact @Homer Bell or @Robin Scalzo for current pricing and lead times.

Part Numbers: E20-1400, E20-1401
 

Elastomeric Thrust Bearings Systems Description

Description:
Elastomeric thrust bearings on a RotorWay are the laminated rubber-and-metal “donut” style bearings in the rotor head (often called elastomeric bearings) that carry thrust loads and allow small amounts of controlled flexing so the blade grips can change pitch and “flap”/“lead-lag” slightly without using traditional rolling-element bearings that need grease. The elastomer (rubber-like compound) is bonded between metal plates; when the rotor pulls upward in flight or cyclic movement is introduced outside of center position, that stack is compressed and sheared, which both supports the rotor’s lift (thrust) and provides built-in damping, smoothing vibration and helping prevent shimmy and rapid oscillations in the head. When these bearings start to fail—usually from age, heat, UV-light exposure, chemical contamination or bond degradation—you’ll often see cracks, bulging/extrusion, delamination, or “cold flow” of the elastomer, and the helicopter may develop new or worsening 1-per-rev vibration, a roughness that changes with rotor RPM or collective, more noticeable stick shake, tracking that won’t stay consistent, or a “looser”/less-damped feel in the rotor system. It is not recommended to use grease anywhere near the elastomeric bearings as this can degrade the polymer prematurely. Some users have reported pulling of the cyclic that disappears after replacing elastomeric bearings, similar to cases that occur when the slider ball adjustment is too tight. In colder temperatures, it's common to feel a little more feedback than normal but it should not be excessive.
Photo of Elastomeric Bearings
[Image: 20230315-145308.jpg]
(New on the left, old on the right — Some minimal rubber polymer bulging is normal and not a concern if the rotor system is smooth)
 

Inspection and Replacement Intervals


It's important to follow our maintenance manuals and inspect the elastomeric bearings every 100 hours or on every annual condition inspection. Taking the blades off at least annually will help to identify premature wear/remove any surface corrosion and allow for re-greasing of pitch pins and roller bearings. Wear clean gloves when handling elastomeric bearings to prevent oils from making contact with the polymer. Other helicopter designs with protective outer seals are more chemical resistant than our elastomerics.

Recommended Inspection Inverval: 100 hours (Section 13 of the Maintenance Manual)
Recommended Replacement Interval: 3 years (Section 24 of the Construction Manual)
Required Replacement Interval: 10 years or On Condition (Section 13 of the Maintenance Manual)
 

Storage of unused Elastomeric Bearings

We recommend that you keep your elastomeric bearings in storage as much as possible until nearing the completion of your helicopter, because the bearings are affected by oxidation and temperature. Follow these specific storage instructions for maximum shelf life:

A. Avoid direct exposure to ultraviolet light.
B. Vacuum seal in a closed bag.
C. Store at a temperature below 32 degrees F (or 0 degrees C).
D. Defrost in the sealed bag at room temperature before installation

When stored in the ideal conditions mentioned above, the elastomeric bearings will last 8 years.

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  New Rotorway Owner
Posted by: Lyle Swallows - 12-27-2025, 01:30 AM - Forum: General Discussion - Replies (2)

Hi all, just want to introduce myself to these wonderful new forums, thanks Jared for your work in getting this site together.

I live in Alaska and i believe i may be the only active rotorway participant up here, i've looked at two rotorway 162F's one 1994 in sorry condition with 100 hours on a factory built machine but then long neglected and torn apart in someones back yard (RIP). the second was a 1999 passed between 3 different hands while building it to near completion but never to fruition due to their age/health/no experience flying the helicopters. i ended up purchasing this one.

about myself, i have been a Helicopter Mechanic for the last 10 years working on Astars, Robinsons, Bells 205/212, 206's, MD500's, and BK117's. i even worked on Bell/Boeing MV-22's in the Marines for 5 years and the legendary Falcon 9 Rocket production and launch operation at SpaceX for another 2.5
amongst all of this mechanical experience i have earned my Helicopter CFI flying mostly Robinson R22's and R44's but have had a tough time over the last 3 years getting a full time instructor job here in Alaska. so now i have my hands on a Rotorway Project, yet to be named, yet to be painted. much work to do.

Being in Alaska and not having a proper shop yet(just a two car garage) i do have some challenges to overcome. we have been having weekly windstorms gusting up to 70-80mph in my area. weekly... evey weekend... this has made initial progress slow, but today i have gotten the Mainshaft/rotor mast off to get it nestled inside my garage. have plans to check out all bearings. shafts for pitting, clean up alot of the fiberglass/body work, change every belt.

already have new door material to build up the doors, interior panels, lots of fun work ahead.
[Image: IMG-0728.jpg]

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