I was chatting with Joe Huff recently and he emphasized that one of the most important maintenance items that gets neglected by some owners is performing the valve lash adjustments every 25 hours. Keeping the valve lash within the specified .004" to .006" is critical to the health of your cam shaft and valve train. If anyone wants a refresher on this simple but critical procedure I will be happy to discuss it here, just let me know.

Yesterday I just finished up with the new owner of Stick Time, an early 2000's 162F that had the 30mm secondary and chain drive. We updated the entire helicopter to the present 162f configuration and now Fred is hauling it back to PA to enjoy his new helicopter. I have three more ships in the hangar that will be getting fresh belts and hoses and anything else needed before being picked up by their new owners. 

I recently sat in a cockpit and was surprised I couldn't keep my head straight without slouching an extreme amount. I had a hard time envisioning how I could fit. Do tall pilots have to hunch over, or is there a modification that can improve the fit? Width was just fine.

Just wondering out loud. I have just purchased a new car and it has a heads up display in it, never had anything like this in the past so I thought a novelty, but the more I drive it the easier I find the driving, as I do not have to take my eyes of the road to check speed and or adjust the cruise etc,
So this is my question ... If I had designed a HUD that would suit the RW would there be interest from the RW community, i.e. would they sell. I say this as I have an electronics engineer who has just purchased a 3D printer so he could design the HUD and then make the housing for it to fit in, I know you can already buy HUDs for cars, I would expect the RW HUD to display on the windscreen and be adjustable as to where on the windscreen and it would display the important instruments, RRPM, FUEL, ASI, VSI,  and maybe leds, (red green yellow) for oil temp, H2O temp etc. Just a thought??

Hi All, if there's anyone there.
i just got the new style slider carriage(TR swashplate)(spider)(whatever you wanna call it) and i am having an interference issue with the end stop/seal holder. instructions just say ensure no interference not how to alleviate any. is it as simple as grind away the clearance ~1/8" of material from the "web"?

i'm sure this is due to my clevis being for the old style, maybe there was an update to the clevis.

not a huge issue, mostly posting to share info incase someone comes across this in the future.

Hi there, ROG is still down. but there were a handful a posts on there that mentioned flipping the cyclic fork/yokes to achieve the same Lateral control but with less overall (half) cyclic travel, this allowed for less interference with legs and the passenger cyclic with minimal additional force required. fore-aft control remains untouched.

my cyclic control tube is out and i am repainting it. this is something i was curious if anyone has this implemented on their ship or has anyone gotten annoyed with the lateral cyclic travel?

i'm inclined to keep it to print unless i am cramming the cyclic into my legs.

maybe i should just modify my flying and not slip as much or stick to traveling where my nose is haha.

i'm not a big fan of the "auto quotes" when messaging other members on this forum,

when responding to a message it automatically quotes the previous message including previous quoted messages. i tend to highlight and delete which is painful and slow. i havnt found a button to hit that will remove the quoted message. is this something that i am missing or can be changed?

who's installed a master switch on their ship? my machine came with a physical battery disconnect underneath the passenger seat, i'm wanting to swap it out for a remote electric master relay.
for fault protection and redundancy reasons i still want the alternator to be in parallel so if the battery becomes disconnected in flight the alternator is still producing a charge.

in my head this sounds simple enough, i'm curious who is actually utilizing a master.

I could not find the thread that showed a damaged tail rotor slider end support so I will start this.

 Some 20 years ago I was the RW rep here in Australia, during that time I found that after the tail rotor slider rails had been installed and the boom skin cut out to clear the pitch control mechanism that the weight of the tail rotor itself, (without the supporting boom skin,) flexed the slider rail down somewhat and thus allowed the tail rotor to have some up and down movement, I considered that was an undesirable issue so I came up with this simple mod. I cannot be sure if any up down play was in the post that showed the damaged vertical aluminium tensioner support but with that small up down play exasperated with maybe a slightly out of perfect balance of the blades, could be the cause of the failure, certainly over tightening the belts would not help and the looseness of the slider to rail without this mod would also be a contributing reason for the failure. 

It is a simple left and right 3/16"rod ends with a left right centre threaded shaft, the hooks themselves were Stainless steel. 
All that this mod was doing is closing the gap between the rail and bearing slider so there was no up / down play, Once that was adjusted there was no need to loosen it for subsequent belt tensioner as it would slide along with the bearing plate. I put them on both sides I thought

it prudent

I've attached a A600 Condition Inspection Checklist I got from @Noel Duerksen .   Posted it here in PDF and Excel for those who would want to modify it for your particular application.   Thanks Noel.

Sam

Attached Files

  Condition Insp Talon.pdf (Size: 148.55 KB / Downloads: 110)
  Condition Insp Talon.xlsx (Size: 23.54 KB / Downloads: 75)